🇬🇭
Dr. Kwame Boateng18 yrs
@kwame
Reminder för alla som håller leopardgeckor: kalcium med D3 är inte samma sak som kalcium utan D3. Båda behövs men vid olika tillfällen. Skriver en guide om det.
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Leopard gecko
Eublepharis macularius
GeckosScaled reptiles
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Image: Wikimedia Commons · CC BY-SA · https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leopard_gecko
Who keeps it
1 person keeps itLatest posts about this species
Care
Beginner- Temperature
- 32–35°C / 22–25°C
- Humidity
- 30–40%
- Terrarium (min)
- 90 × 45 × 30 cm
- Adult size
- 18–25 cm
- Lifespan
- 15–20 years
- Diet
- Insectivore
- Active
- Crepuscular
- Social
- Solitary
Summary
Eublepharis macularius, the leopard gecko, is the most widely kept pet lizard in the world for good reason. It is small, hardy, long-lived, easily handled, and feeds on commercially available insects. Unlike most geckos, it has movable eyelids, lacks adhesive toe pads, and lives on the ground rather than climbing. Care centers on a long, low enclosure with a clear thermal gradient, multiple hides (warm, cool, and one humid for shedding), and a calcium-supplemented insect diet. Wild-type animals are sandy-yellow with dark spots; over 100 morphs exist from decades of selective captive breeding. Adults live 15-20 years with attentive care, with exceptional individuals reaching 25+. The combination of forgiving husbandry, calm temperament, and morph variety makes leopard geckos an excellent first reptile.
Diet & feeding
Feed live insects: crickets, dubia roaches, mealworms (occasional), hornworms (treat), and black soldier fly larvae. Vary the diet — insect monotony causes nutritional gaps. Hatchlings and juveniles eat daily; adults every 2-3 days. Dust insects with calcium powder (without D3) at most feedings, and add a multivitamin with D3 once or twice weekly. Avoid superworms or large mealworms for small geckos (impaction risk). Never feed wild-caught insects (parasites, pesticides). A shallow water dish must always be available. If a leopard gecko refuses food for more than two weeks, suspect temperature, illness, or breeding cycle — consult a reptile vet.
Terrarium & setup
A single adult needs a minimum 90 x 45 x 30 cm horizontal enclosure; 120 x 45 x 45 cm is much better and allows a richer environment. Provide a thermal gradient: warm side 32-35°C surface temperature using an under-tank heater on a thermostat or low-wattage halogen bulb; cool side 22-25°C ambient. Three hides are non-negotiable: one warm, one cool, and one humid (filled with damp moss or sphagnum, used for shedding). Substrate should be loose-particle-free for juveniles — paper, tile, or non-adhesive shelf liner works; reptile carpet harbors bacteria. Adults can use bioactive setups with proper drainage. Provide low-output UVB (Arcadia Shadedweller 6% T5 or similar) on a 12-hour cycle. Decorate with cork bark, slate, and silk plants for visual barriers. Always use a thermostat for any heat source.
Common beginner mistakes
The most damaging beginner mistakes are: using a heat rock or unregulated heat mat (causes burns); placing juveniles on sand or walnut-shell substrate (impaction); housing two males together (always fight); skipping calcium supplementation (metabolic bone disease); and pulling on a stuck shed (tail or toe loss). Tail drops happen — a regenerated tail is shorter and bulbous, and the gecko remains otherwise healthy, but stress should be minimized. Cold ambient temperatures suppress digestion before they suppress activity, so a sluggish gecko after eating signals temperature problems.
Beginner tips
Leopard geckos are forgiving teachers. Start with a single captive-bred juvenile from a reputable breeder — never wild-caught. Spend the first week letting it settle without handling. Once it's eating reliably and has shed at least once, begin five-minute handling sessions every few days. Keep a feeding log; it will reveal patterns long before problems become visible. Join a herpetological society or online keeper community to ask questions when something looks "off" — experienced eyes catch what beginners miss.
Frequently asked questions
Do leopard geckos need UVB lighting?
Strict-no answers are outdated. While leopard geckos are crepuscular and survive without UVB if given dietary D3, recent research shows low-level UVB (Arcadia Shadedweller 6% T5 or similar) supports long-term bone health and natural behavior. It costs little and is best practice for new setups.How often should I feed an adult leopard gecko?
Adults thrive on appropriately sized insects every 2-3 days. Juveniles eat daily until about a year old. Match prey size to the width between the gecko's eyes — never larger.Can I keep two leopard geckos together?
Two males will fight, often fatally. Two females sometimes cohabit but compete for resources and can carry stress that's hard to detect. Solo housing is the safest choice for beginners.My leopard gecko dropped its tail — what now?
A dropped tail is alarming but not life-threatening. Keep the enclosure clean to prevent infection, consult a reptile vet if you see redness or discharge, and avoid handling for two weeks. The tail regrows in a bulbous form within months.What temperatures should I aim for?
Warm side surface 32-35°C (basking spot under a heat source), cool side ambient 22-25°C. Use a digital probe thermometer at gecko-level — IR temp guns measure surface, which is what matters under heat. A thermostat on the heat source is essential.How long do leopard geckos live?
With proper husbandry, 15-20 years is typical. Well-cared specimens regularly reach 20+ and exceptional individuals 25+. They are a long-term commitment.
AI-generated summary (claude-opus-4-7 (chat)) — review critically and consult an experienced keeper before bringing the animal home.